Microdermabrasion vs. Dermaplaning: The Honest Comparison (And What I Learned Trying One)

Your feed is full of both right now: the crystal wand vs. the surgical blade. They're often treated as interchangeable, but they aren't—they solve different problems, and choosing the wrong one can trigger a flare-up.

I tried dermaplaning last month—stacked with Gua Sha and red light therapy—and I have thoughts. But first, let’s clear up the confusion so you can make an informed decision.

 

The Basics: Physical Exfoliation

Both treatments belong to the physical exfoliation family. They work on the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of dead skin cells) to remove dullness and reflect light for an instant glow. Because they target the exact same layer, you shouldn't stack them together.

1. Microdermabrasion: The Sander

Microdermabrasion uses mechanical abrasion (via crystals, a diamond tip, or water in hydrodermabrasion) combined with suction to buff away dead skin and clear out pores.

• The Suction Factor: The suction stimulates blood flow, giving you a flushed, refreshed look. However, suction on inflamed skin creates a much angrier face—skip this if you have active breakouts or rosacea.

• Best For: Overall dullness, uneven texture, superficial discoloration, and congested pores.

• Results: Requires a series of 5–6 treatments spaced 2–4 weeks apart for cumulative results. Minimal downtime (a few hours of slight pinkness).

2. Dermaplaning: The Blade

Dermaplaning uses a sterile, surgical-grade blade held at a 45-degree angle to scrape away dead skin cells and vellus hair (peach fuzz). That’s the key difference.

• Myth Busting: No, your hair will not grow back thicker or darker. Shaving cuts hair at the surface with a blunt edge, which can feel stubbly initially, but it does not alter the underlying follicle or hair growth cycle.

• Why Fuzz Removal Matters: Peach fuzz holds onto foundation, traps oil and dead skin, and diffuses light. Removing it allows makeup to glide on smoothly and helps your skincare products absorb better.

• Best For: Smooth makeup application, dullness, and instant radiance.

• Cadence: Every 3–4 weeks to match your skin's natural turnover.

• At-Home vs. Pro: At-home facial razors work great for light maintenance and fuzz, but professional dermaplaning offers a much deeper exfoliation. If doing it at home: use light pressure on dry, taut skin, and always use a fresh blade.

 

Who Should Skip Each One

 

Note: Never run a blade or suction over active breakouts—it spreads bacteria and worsens inflammation. If you use prescription retinoids (like tretinoin), pause them several days before and after either treatment.

 

Quick Guide: Which One Do You Need?

• Peach fuzz bothers you or makeup looks patchy? Dermaplaning

• Texture, clogged pores, and dullness are main issues? Microdermabrasion

• Want both? Alternate them across different weeks.

• Skin is red, reactive, or broken out? Neither! Focus on repairing your skin barrier first.

 

What I Actually Did Last Month 

I stacked dermaplaning, Gua Sha, and red light therapy into a single session. The order was deliberate:

1. Dermaplaning First: It's something I've been considering for a while but never went through with. It was a very smooth process that was relaxing and painless. Once back at home, I immediately noticed a glow and a smoother complexion due to the peach fuzz being removed. In that moment afterwards, I was truly able to see how well Tretinoin had been working. My skin just needed manual exfoliation to reveal the healthy looking skin beneath. 

2. Gua Sha Second: Gua Sha won't reshape your facial bones, but it moves fluid and releases hidden tension. Your lymphatic system relies on external pressure to drain fluid, which is why Gua Sha works so well for morning puffiness. Freshly exfoliated, relaxed facial muscles respond instantly to this mechanical drainage. I honestly didn't notice much of a difference from the Gua Sha treatment but once again, it was more of a relaxation component of my overall treatment. 

3. Red Light Last: Modern red light therapy is used today to boost cellular energy, stimulate collagen production, speed up skin repair, and calm inflammation. Ending with red light helps soothe freshly exfoliated skin—and because dermaplaning removed the barrier of dead skin and hair, the light penetrates more effectively. This was my first time trying red light therapy and it was a great experience. I didn't expect much since this type of treatment is best when combined with consistency. But I didn't have any inflammation, redness or irritation afterwards so I'm assuming it did what it was supposed to do.

 

The verdict 

Let's just say that I already have another appointment booked for 6 weeks out. In conjunction with my nightly Tretinoin application, this is treatment that I plan to keep in rotation for the unforeseeable future. It was relaxing, it was painless, my skin tolerated it well, and it revealed skin that looked beyond amazing afterwards. It's now part of my self-care routine that will be a non-negotiable. It's a little pricey for all 3 but spacing treatments out every 6-8 weeks makes it budget friendly. I'll be sure to report back what I experienced after my next session.  

 

Crucial Aftercare

Removing your skin's top layer means you must protect it. For 3–5 days before and after:

• Avoid: Retinoids, acids (AHAs/BHAs), scrubs, and hair removal.

• Day Of: Skip hot workouts, saunas, and hot showers. Stick to a simple routine: gentle cleanser, hydrating serum, and moisturizer.

• Non-Negotiable: SPF every single day. Freshly exfoliated skin burns faster, and sun damage causes long-term hyperpigmentation.

 

The Takeaway: Neither treatment is a magic fix, but both deliver great results on healthy, well-cared-for skin. If you're unsure which path to take, consult a licensed esthetician who can assess your skin in person.

Take care of yourself out there,

— Amber 

Founder, BBF By Amber💕